The machiya is a hundred-year-old Kyoto townhouse, and this one has been restored without being sterilised: the wood still creaks in the right places, the tatami room smells faintly of rush grass, and the lane outside goes silent at nine.
The bed is a proper futon on tatami — firmer than a Western mattress, and after a 25,000-step temple day, exactly right. Blackout is total. The one honest flaw: the bathroom is compact even by Japanese standards.
Location is the win. Hanamikoji Street is four minutes on foot, which means you see Gion at 7am and 10pm — the two hours the tour buses never do.
Booked twice already. Reserve two months out for blossom season and take the ground-floor room — the garden view is worth the extra $6.